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Exploring Zagreb: A 48-Hour Itinerary in Croatia's capital

Many people visit Split and Dubrovnik instead of Zagreb due to the ocean versus the city scene. However, they do not know what extraordinary culture and history they are missing. Zagreb provides you with the authentic perspective of Croatia without the influence of tourists. You are able to enjoy the same things as the locals and relax at the various coffee shops like the local students and people who are working from home. It is such a treasure. So, you may ask, how do you spend your time in Zagreb?


How to Spend 48 Hours in Zagreb:


Day One

Breakfast at Amélie


If you enjoy a sweet breakfast, then go to Amélie for a variety of desserts from the seasonal options such as pumpkin cake or their regular desserts. They also offer juices, smoothies, and various coffee options.

You can enjoy seating either inside or outside as you prefer. It’s great to go inside to check out the various desserts to see how they look; however, it is not a must. If you would rather just grab a dessert to go or a few delicious treats, you can go next door to grab them to go. We did this after enjoying a few slices of cakes and tarts outside.


Go on a Walking Tour


After enjoying breakfast or a treat, head to Ban Jelačić Square for a free walking tour or a tour with Free Spirit Tours. If you decide to do a tour, make sure to book in advance. The website is www.freespirittours.eu, where you can see over 15 different types of tours. The top three that we decided from were the Food, War Tour, and Free Walking Tour. The tours are provided in English and Spanish. Once you arrive, they will ask which tour and which language you are for. The free walking tour is solely based on tips and no payment beforehand, whereas the food and war tour is a paid tour. The food tour is 89 euros for ages 18 to 99, 44.50 euros for ages 7 to 14, and free for ages below 7 years old. It takes you to 5 food spots that offer traditional Croatian dishes. The war tour is 35 euros for ages 18 to 99, 17.50 euros for ages 7 to 14, and free for ages below 7 years old. The war tour takes you to the WW2 underground tunnels and a basement that was used for shelter during the bombings. The tours can last from 1.5 to 3 hours long.

The tour took us to:

  • Donji Grad

  • Stone Gate

  • St. Mark’s Church

  • St. Catherine’s Square

  • Lotrščak Tower

    • Grič Cannon shooting at noon

  • 360 Degree Observation Deck

  • Dolac Market

  • Radićeva Street


Try a traditional Croatian dish at La Štruk


Go to La Štruk to try the traditional Croatian dish called “štrukli,” known in households across Hrvatsko and Zagreb, which is a special dough and fresh cottage cheese. There are two types: one is zapečeni štrukli, which is gratinated štrukli, while the other is kuhani štrukli, which is cooked štrukli. The most popular we heard was the truffle and blueberry option; we opted for the original instead. (I feel like truffle is one of those flavors that you either hate or love; there is no in-between.)


Grab a bite or snack at Otto & Frank


While you are in the area of Old Town on Tkalčićeva Street, grab a coffee, drink, dessert, or bite to eat from Otto & Frank. We grabbed a coffee and dessert there, and baby, let me tell you, that dessert was amazing. (I am not a huge fan of desserts, but this pumpkin pie was amazing, or as the new slang goes, THIS SLAPPED!)


Stroll Old Town


If you have some time, I would recommend that you stroll Old Town. Go into a few shops and look around. Enjoy the architecture and really embrace the authentic scenery. We happened to go around the time of All Saints Day, and we were able to see flowers everywhere as people were buying them along with what looked like lanterns as they were heading towards the cemetery.


Go to the Museum of Hangovers


If you enjoy trying new things and want to escape the usual art/history museums, the Museum of Hangovers is a unique experience. You will enter into various themed rooms, learning stories from drunken nights and fun facts related to alcohol and the history of alcohol. Before entering, you are given a light to use for one of the rooms, which reveals some interesting historical information along with illustrations. It really takes you back, or at least that is what the room experience provided. As you make your way towards the end, there are great interactive experiences and great photo-ops! The real surprise is when you finish at the museum!


Have Dinner at Vinodol


Their menu changes weekly and is based on the season. We asked CHATGPT to provide us with an authentic Croatian cuisine restaurant that provides local food, and this restaurant was the number one recommended. There is plenty of space, and the staff are extremely kind. They provided us with everything we needed to ensure that our little one was comfortable, and all their baby equipment (high-chair) was very clean. We ordered: tartar tuna, pumpkin soup with wild mushrooms & roasted chestnuts, breaded chicken with


Day Two:

Go to either Quahwa or Cogito for Breakfast


Both Quahwa and Cogito have amazing coffee; however, there are three locations that you can select from Cogito, and this is why I mention that you can choose either to go to Quahwa or Cogito. As for Cogito, you can visit another location later on throughout the day depending on which direction you go in.

Quahwa is one of the best specialty coffee shops in Zagreb. They have a variety of options to choose from along with a detailed description and pictures to help make your selection easier (or as easy as it can be). They actually roast their beans onsite, and you can see many people coming in to purchase their beans.


Stroll around towards the Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb and enjoy the surrounding parks


You can stroll and enjoy the scenic view at the parks, as well as walk by and admire the Croatian National Theatre. If you would like to go inside, we would recommend checking the schedule to see if there are any shows or even a guided tour. Honestly, the Theatre is a marvel to see from the outside and makes for some amazing photos.


Shop Local


Shop! Shop! Shop! Try to find shops that are not an H&M, Zara, or that you are familiar with. Instead, go into a locally owned boutique or shop that you may only see in Croatia. We find that it is also a great way to learn about the culture and style of a country.


Go to Museum of Broken Relationships

Learn about the different breakup stories around and see what people have left behind as a symbol of their broken relationship. Another unique and interesting experience. They also have a great coffee shop attached to the museum with kind staff.


Eat lunch at Didou San


Located in Upper Town and known for the “peka,” which is a traditional Croatian dish that cooks the meat slowly under a bell-shaped lid covered in hot coals. We ordered: Grilled Squid, Grandfather Pan, and Black Risotto. Keep in mind, if you plan on going on a Saturday, make sure that you make a reservation before going.


Take the funicular


Experience the world’s shortest funicular; you can go up or down or even both. One way is less than 1 euro/dollar (You are paying for the experience). If you do not want to take it, you can take the stairs up or down. We took the funicular one day, and the other day, we walked down twice.


Go to Cogito for a coffee/drink and snack break


Cogito roasts their own beans as well and has several (3) locations, each providing a spacious area for sitting. We actually went to two of the three locations. At one, we enjoyed a butter croissant and a café latte. At the other one, we opted to get their can, which included a cold brew and flat white. We enjoyed both locations.


Check out Muzej Čokolade Zagreb (Museum of Chocolate)


You will experience various chocolates through the 7 different rooms. Make sure that you read the instructions before just throwing a piece of chocolate in your mouth. It is recommended that you actually enjoy strolling through the museum and reading the history/facts regarding chocolate. Many visitors, while we were there, ran straight to the room with the fountains, and that was it. There is a lot of important and interesting information that you will miss by doing that.


Grab Dinner at Dobrodošli Heritage


Try traditional Croatian foods and drinks. Their focus is to eat, buy, and support the local economy. The area is small but very popular. We were able to dine in and ask questions, which made our experience even more personal/remarkable. The staff were extremely friendly and kind as they helped us with the selection of choices. We ate there and grabbed a few things to take back to the hotel.


What can you do if you have more time?

Here are a few other coffee shops, food places, and things that you can do:

  • Mirogoj Cemetery - We did not go due to it being All Saints Week, and the cemetery was full of people visiting their loved ones. We would highly recommend that you go because we’ve heard that it is a beautiful cemetery that is worth visiting.

  • Ficlek - We would have eaten here, but when we went, they were booked until the next day. We would highly recommend that you make a reservation to eat here.

  • Kitchen & Grill PLAC restaurant - A restaurant to try “ćevapi,” which is grilled minced meat with bread.

  • Crošara Edible Souvenirs - Here you are able to taste over 30 different local products, from beer to olive oil.

  • Stari Fijaker - This place offers “sarma,” which is a stuffed cabbage roll with minced meat, rice, and spices. Make sure that you make a reservation before going. We went, and they were completely booked for 6 hours. The food smelled divine when we entered, and my little heart was crushed!

  • OAZA Joyful Kitchen (VEGAN) - Vegan restaurant.

  • Cravatikum Museum of the Cravat - A museum that is dedicated to neckties and the Croatian history/meaning of what the neckties represented (or at least this is what the tour guide told us on our tour).

  • Tolkien’s House Beer Bar - A bar that provides some locally crafted beers.

  • Mali Bar- Supposedly a trendy bar that has more of a modern take on Croatian cuisine. The recommended dishes to try are the roasted lamb and grilled octopus.

  • A Most Unusual Garden- This place is recommended by at least all the bloggers and content creators that have been to Zagreb because of its picturesque scenery.

  • Okrugljak- One of the oldest restaurants in Zagreb that offers traditional Croatian dishes. They are well-known for their odrezak, which is a breaded schnitzel that can include being stuffed with ham and cheese.

  • Take a day trip to: Zagreb Wineries, Plitvice Lakes National Park (UNESCO World Heritage site), Varaždin, Krapina (Krapina Neanderthal Museum), Trakošćan Castle, or Žumberak Nature Park.


Two places that we were not able to see are:

  • Zagreb Cathedral - Due to the earthquake in 2020, the inside of the church is under reconstruction and will not be able to be seen for another 7 years.

  • Art Pavilion - Was being restructured when we went.

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